Cutting LED strips without making mistakes

We are frequently asked how to cut LED strips correctly—and for good reason: over 60% of premature LED strip failures are caused by improper cuts and careless connections. After many years of hands-on experience and technical consulting, we created this concise guide to support users through the cutting process.

Many assume an LED strip is merely a ribbon with tiny lights. In reality, it is a complex, miniaturized electronic circuit. Handling it without proper knowledge is the fastest way to compromise functionality and longevity. After many years of experience and consulting, we created this concise guide to support users through the cutting process.

Why cutting LED strips correctly isn’t obvious

Before reaching for scissors, understand exactly what you’re cutting. An LED strip is a flexible printed circuit board (PCB). On it, LEDs and resistors are mounted in parallel groups called "modules" or "segments." Cutting at the wrong point breaks the electrical path, causing the strip to fail.

One of the most frequent errors we encounter during support is cutting "by eye" because the strip appears continuous. In reality, cut lines are always—without exception—marked by a symbol (scissors icon or dashed line) and exposed copper solder pads.

Key technical specifications

Every strip has unique specs. Full technical datasheets are available in our catalog. Before cutting or connecting any LED strip, always verify the following:

Parameter	What it indicates	Example (4000K LED)	Consequence of ignoring it
Voltage (V)	12V, 24V, 230V. Determines power supply compatibility and voltage drop.	24V DC	Powering a 24V strip with 12V = dim or no light. Reversing = instant damage.
LED Density (LEDs/m)	Number of LEDs per linear meter: 30, 60, 120, 240.	120 LEDs/m	Determines brightness and cut frequency. At 120 LEDs/m, cut every 2.5cm.
Power (W/m)	Power consumption per meter. Critical for sizing the power supply.	28.8 W/m	Undersized power supply = overheating and drastically reduced lifespan.
IP Rating	Dust/water resistance level (e.g., IP20 for indoor, IP67/68 for outdoor/wet areas).	IP67 (Waterproof)	Cutting an IP67 strip? YOU MUST reseal the cut with silicone or hot glue.
Max Run Length	Maximum meters connectable in series to one power supply output.	10m for 24V (with central feed)	Exceeding length causes voltage drop: end LEDs appear dimmer and yellower.

Cutting LED strips: where to cut—and where never to cut

Let’s examine the cutting phase and essential precautions. Never treat this as a casual DIY step.

How to identify safe cut points

Method 1 (Visual): Locate the two copper contact pads and the dashed line or scissors symbol. Between them lies a "neutral" zone with no components—this is the only safe cut point.

Method 2 (Measurement): If markings are unclear, measure. Cut intervals vary by model and are always specified in the technical datasheet. Use calipers or a precision ruler.

On high-density strips (240 LEDs/m), cut points are extremely close. We recommend a magnifying glass for accuracy. A 1mm misaligned cut can disable multiple LEDs.

Essential tools for cutting LED strips

Tool	Model Example	Purpose
Ultra-sharp utility knife	Olfa ART-1 with replaceable blades	Clean, perpendicular cuts prevent copper trace damage. Scissors cause micro-fractures.
Heavy metal ruler	30cm steel ruler	Guides the blade for millimeter-precise straight cuts. Plastic rulers flex.
Temperature-controlled soldering iron	Weller WE 1010 with 1–2mm fine tip	Soldering ensures permanent, low-resistance joints. Ideal temp: 300–320°C.
Connectors (soldering alternative)	4-pin clip connectors for LED strips	Ideal for quick tests or temporary setups. For longevity, soldering remains superior.

How to cut LED strips: step by step

PHASE A: Preparation

Always power off and disconnect the supply. Clean copper pads with electronic flux and a cotton swab to remove oxidation and ensure optimal solder adhesion.

PHASE B: Cutting

Align the metal ruler precisely on the cut line.
Using the utility knife, make 3–4 firm passes, gradually increasing pressure. Never attempt a single-pass cut.
Inspect the edge: copper pads on both sides must remain intact and shiny.

Polarity matters: On monochrome strips, the "+" pad (or red wire) is the anode; "-" (or black wire) is the cathode. RGB/RGBW strips follow standard labeling: R (Red), G (Green), B (Blue), W (White), + (Common Anode). Reversing polarity on monochrome = no light (no damage). Swapping RGB channels = incorrect colors.

PHASE C: Soldering

Lightly tin the strip pads and wire ends.
Place the tinned wire on the pad. Touch with the soldering iron tip (320°C) for 1–2 seconds until solder flows.
Remove iron; hold wire steady 2 seconds while solder solidifies.
Result should be a shiny, concave fillet. Dull/grainy (cold joint) or ball-shaped (insufficient flux)? Redo.

Connection diagram for joining strips

Multiple methods exist to connect and power LED strips. To eliminate voltage drop—especially in longer runs—consider dual-end power feeding. For strips over 5m, connect the power supply to both ends. This balances circuit resistance and prevents dimming or color shift mid-strip.

Example: Installing a 10m 24V, 28.8W/m strip

Total power: 10m × 28.8W/m = 288W.
Use a single power supply rated ≥350W (maintain ≥20% safety margin).
Split output into two cables (min. 1.5mm² gauge for 24V).
Connect one cable to the strip’s start, the other to its end—observing polarity.
Install a dimmer controller (e.g., DALI or 0–10V protocol) on only one end—never both.

Mistakes to avoid when cutting LED strips

Cutting on curves: LED strips bend—they aren’t cut along arcs. For curves, make straight cuts and bridge gaps with flexible jumper wires. Always verify minimum bend radius (check datasheet or consult support).
Overloading the power supply: A 100W supply driving 130W will trigger protection or fail. Always calculate load carefully. Review our power calculation guide here.
Mixing batches in one installation: Minor production variations cause visible shade differences (MacAdam steps). Use strips from the same production lot (lot code) per room.
Installing IP67 strips inside ventilation-free aluminum profiles: Heat buildup can reduce lifespan by 70%. For enclosed profiles, choose non-waterproof strips (IP20) or use profiles with diffusers and airflow.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can I connect two cut 5m strips in series to make 10m?
A: Yes—but only with 24V strips and proper gauge wiring (min. 1.5mm²) between segments. For best results, also inject power at the midpoint.

Q: The adhesive backing no longer holds. What now?
A: Adhesive is for temporary positioning only. For permanent installs, use Ledpoint aluminum profiles with diffuser covers—they secure, dissipate heat, and enhance light quality.

Q: After cutting, the first 3 LEDs past the cut are dimmer. Why?
A: The cut was too close to the pad, damaging the trace feeding that segment. Cut off that segment and restart. LED circuits are extremely delicate.

Cutting LED strips: never underestimate this step

Cutting and connecting an LED strip is not a trivial task to rush. Precision cutting and low-resistance connections are not optional: they are essential for uniform illumination, zero flicker, peak efficiency, and achieving (or exceeding) the 30,000-hour lifespan specified in datasheets.

Every time you approach an LED strip with scissors or a soldering iron, you are modifying an electronic circuit. Respecting its inherent properties—cut points, voltage, conductor gauge—is what separates a flawed amateur result from a clean, professional installation you’ll rely on for years.

Now that you know how to cut LED strips correctly, take the next step: browse the catalog!